Showing posts with label leyte. Show all posts
Showing posts with label leyte. Show all posts

Friday, July 20, 2012

Live to Walk; Walk to Live

I love to walk.

Day or night, rain or shine? It’s hard to decide the best time to walk. I love the feel of the cool air during early morning walks with only the occasional bird announcing the arrival of the sun. Evenings give me a chance to glance at the stars and reflect on the day that passed. I come alive when walking in the sun—with hat and shades of course! And walking in the rain brings back childhood memories of paper boats and wiggly earth worms coming up for air.

Most walks are uneventful— most times with my lonesome self. Just my thoughts to keep me company. But there have been a few walks that have been quite memorable. Like the surreal walk through the hills of Cappadocia, Turkey. And, that time my daughter and I got lost and walked for 4 hours in a forested area of St Remy, France. But those are stories for another time.

I smile now as I recall a more recent walk that took place two weeks ago in the backroads of my grandmother’s farm.

My sister, M, had come to visit. She has been residing in the US and the last time she visited the Philippines was 7 years ago. She was eager to renew ties with relatives and friends as well as check out old haunts around the farm.

It was 6 in the morning and the air was chilly as usual. Soon the house will stir to life with breakfast preparations. Smoke from the old wood fed iron stove whiffed through the house.

 But first, M and I will take a walk.

“Let’s go,” I called to my sister as I laced up my rubber shoes.

First stop was at the grave site of grandmother and grandfather— close to the house and beside a small chapel. Looking up, we see the thick stand of trees on a nearby hill.



Because it had rained hard the night before, we carefully skipped through puddles and gingerly walked through some mud. 


Along the way, we saw a young boy and a girl. They were on their way to fetch water from a spring.


As kids, we used to visit the spring to check for turtles. The turtles are gone now but laundry continue to get done by the women folks.


Not too long into our walk, my sister called my attention to a man who had quietly joined us and was trailing behind us. I took a side glance and noted that he was muscular and had a bolo slung on his left side. Having seen too many thrillers, I decided to face my fear and casually, I turned to face him.

“Maayong buntag ‘Noy,” was my greeting.

“Maayong buntag sad,” was his response. He gave me a respectful smile.

“Asa man ka padung ‘Noy,” I asked. (Where are you heading?)

With the same respectful smile, he answered, “ Gi-sugo ko ni Inday C na pakuyugan mo.” (I have been asked by your aunt to accompany you)

M and I laughed with relief to realize that he was no assassin but our very own close-in security sent by my aunt. The area is noted for cobras and although I have gone alone through the same route many times before without incident, my aunt did not want to take any chances.

Every now and then as we turned a curve or reach a good vintage point, Mt Boga-boga would show her majectic self. Mt Boga-baga has a solid rock facade on one side and we still saw the skid marks made by bullets fired by American soldiers during WW2 in an attempt to flash out retreating Japanese soldiers.



Before long, not only did we have protection but our “body guard” was quite helpful answering our questions about plants and birds and cobras.

We spotted a young carabao and his mother. They temporarily blocked our path but moved along without protest at the urging of our “body guard/guide”.


20 minutes into our walk, we reached a man-made pond that was fed by the rain water coming down from the hills. It was just as lovely as we remembered it to be.


My sister and I recalled that time the floating hut we were on got stranded in the middle of the pond. It was a while before a cousin came by to pull us back to shore. We continued our walk and occasionally, a dog would come out barking from under a lonesome hut.



We will probably be the most exciting thing the dog will come across the whole day. The presence of our guardian made us bold enough to shoo the dog away.

The road was getting narrower as we came across a brook close to some rice paddies.


We were quickly warned by our guardian of the leeches that liked to hang out in the clear water.

The sun was coming on strong as it moved up into the sky. It was time to turn back as our stomachs reminded us that breakfast was waiting for our return.

As I turned around to thank our guardian, he was nowhere in sight. As quietly as he joined us, he had just as quietly disappeared into the thick forest cover.


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I am a firm believer of the health benefits from a good walk. But more than anything else, a good walk increases one’s positive attitude in life. Problems may not be solved but walking does provide an avenue to release stress and anxiety. Ultimately, being able to walk is a great reminder of how beautiful the world is and how lucky I am to be alive! For that I am grateful.

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Now a good walk is sure to build up one’s appetite to take on challenges head on. And appetite we did have when we returned to my grandmother’s house. On the table were cups of hot tsokolate and fried eggs.


Plus the left-over lechon from our Sunday lunch celebration was now transformed into paksiw.

Mind you, this was the Visayan version—meaning no bottled liver sauce added.



I challenge you to try the following recipe--- but do take a walk first before you indulge.

Visayan Style Lechon Paksiw
2 kilos left over lechon—best if you can get hold of the head and knuckles (feet)
1 head garlic, crushed and peeled
4 T vinegar
4 T soy sauce
1 T pepper corns
4 T brown sugar (more or less depending on how sweet you like your paksiw)
3 bay leaves
Any left over lechon stuffing (the lemon grass/onions/etc inside the lechon's cavity) , optional
about 2 cups of water
Salt

Throw everything in a pot and bring to a boil. Then lower heat to a simmer until meat is tender. Adjust seasoning and serve with lots of rice. 

Walk again after your meal.

Monday, July 16, 2012

Numbers Game

Mang D used to work in my grandmother’s coconut farm. He was an expert at climbing the tallest coconut trees and usually got top pay for bringing in the most coconuts for copra production. A cheerful fellow, he was well liked by many.

One day he was invited to take a swig of some tuba (fermented coconut water) by the men who frequented the local watering hole (sari-sari store). Unknown to Mang D, a pill was mixed in with the tuba. Before long, Mang D felt strange and he noticed the quickening of his heartbeat. He thanked his generous host and went off to the direction of his house.

While on his way, he noticed that there was a beautiful bird singing up high a coconut tree. It was as if the bird was calling to Mang D. Without a second thought, he climbed up the coconut tree.

The next thing he knew, he was on the ground and wringing in pain. Luckily, a neighbor happen to pass by. Noticing that there was something terribly wrong with Mang D, the neighbor went off to get help.

When asked what he was doing climbing an electrical post, Mang D could only shake his head. Everything was a blur for Mang D. He had burned both hands.


In order to save Mang D, the doctors had to cut off both arms. The right arm was cut just below the elbow. While the left was cut closer to his shoulder.


That was several years ago. Mang D can no longer climb coconut trees but he has found another source of income. He goes around the barangay taking in bets for the local numbers game popularly known as Masiao. Bettors reach into his shirt pocket for the neatly folded paper and pen to write their number combination. They then place their bet in the right pocket of his pants.

Life goes on for Mang D.



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Masiao, the illegal numbers game, is alive and well in Leyte and many parts of the Visayas. A bet of P1 on a three number combination can mean a kilo of rice the next day—if one is lucky. The problem is that kilo of rice may be long in coming if one does not have the winning combination.

And so it goes in many barangays in the city and in the rural areas. Stories of large winnings fan the gambling flame. This is an addiction that is hard to beat when hope for a better life is just a P1 away.

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On a lucky day, a hearty meal for many rural folks consist of a can of sardines. To extend the amount of serving, vegetables, noodles or an egg is added. But on a bad day, a meal could mean day-old rice and ginamos. Ginamos or bagoong is tiny fermented fish.



But to me, it’s always a lucky day when ginamos is present in any meal. Served plainly with a dash of calamansi and it’s a dipping sauce for fried meat or boiled green bananas. It can add life to stewed vegetables or the perfect addition to sautéed trio of tomatoes, onions and garlic.



It’s a numbers game when guessing how much rice you will end up eating when you have ginamos--- plain or fancy.



Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Endless Possibilities

It started with the question over dinner with my kids: “Where shall we go for the Holy Week?”

Options were brought up, scrutinized and dropped… visit to China town (been there), Intramuros (done that), tour the lake towns of Laguna (traffic), Tagaytay and Baguio (NO! that’s where everyone goes)

Then I mentioned my grandma’s farmhouse in Leyte and my two kids sat up with interest. It’s been 5 years since their last visit and it was only right to renew ties with the relatives plus there was the chance to make a short visit to Samar. A quick check with the airfare prices proved that travel to Leyte via Tacloban was do-able and best of all affordable.

In the week that preceded our travel, I had bought a Leyte-Samar map and arranged for a van rental.



My daughter came up with our Samar itinerary and my son promised not to do any dangerous stuff that young men like to do on vacation—like swim, run or walk too far out into the unknown.

In the three and a half days together, I have discovered that:
• The San Juanico bridge can give the San Francisco Bridge stiff competition in awesomeness.



• There is so much beauty in our country. Samar may be labeled the poorest of the provinces but nature has endowed it with beautiful beaches and green landscape. Tourism possibilities seem endless.



• Europe has some of the most beautiful churches but are often times empty and sad. In contrast, Basey in Samar has a very old and dilapidated church whose bell tower is overrun with ferns and pews eaten away by termites.



But the fresh flowers



and the chorus of voices enacting the way of the cross attest that the faith is very much alive in this poor part of the country.



• There are so many delicacies made special in Leyte. Here are just a few:

 Batingkol- made from grated gabi and wrapped in banana leaves-- similar in taste as the binagol but less sweet.

 Binagol- made from grated gabi (talyan), eggs, sugar, peanuts and condensed milk and packed in a coconut shell



 Moron- made from glutinous rice, condensed milk, suar, margarin, cocoa powder, grated coconut and peanuts. This is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed.



 Salvaro- a sweet kind of bread with bits of grated coconut



 Suman Tinipa- two types of glutinous rice is used and entwined in banana leaves.

• My kids are truly grown up by the way they shook the hands of relatives. I proudly listen to my son and daughter as they share their opinion on what’s happening in the world with uncles and aunts.

• My kids are still kids by the way they still enjoy being spoiled by their mother. “Can I have some ice cream mommy?”

• My mother and her siblings may have discovered the secret to eternal youth. Simple living and limit beer intake to 3 bottles--- after 3 bottles, no more limit (thanks Tita C for that advise)

• I never tire of the stories told and retold on my grandma’s porch.



The shared experience of growing up together in the most pitiful conditions made for a strong family unit. This has been tested time and again in sickness, in financial strains, and in the simplest need for an understanding presence.

• In order for the family ties to stay strong, there is a conscious need for children to know their roots.



• Age is just a number. It’s hard to believe that my mother and her siblings are in their 70s and 80s. Their laughter rings with youthful vigor.



• The cycle of life continues. My cousins are slowly taking on from their parents the responsibilities of running their family’s farm.



• Having and using a chamber pot (arinola) in the room needs getting used to. But it beats going to the toilet so many steps away in the dark with a “tuko” hovering over the door.



• Fear can hold you back from a beautiful experience. Am glad I gave in to my kids and went with them on a two hour trip around the most fascinating rock and islet formations along the shores of Marabut, Samar.



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Sometime ago, I took the challenge of preparing the tedious but delicious Suman Tinipa. If you have time on your hands and have eager assistants, do give in to this challenge. Don’t let the fear of the unknown stop you.

Suman Tinipa (recipe taken from "Saru-saro Kita! 100 nga mga Kaluto ha Leyte" )

1 1/4 kilos white glutinous rice (busag nga pilit)
1 1/4 kilos violet glutinous rice (tapul nga pilit)
3 cups thin coconut milk (lapsaw nga hatok)
3 cups thick coconut milk (tuno)
1 kilo brown sugar ( pula nga asukar)
2 T salt (asin)

For wrapping:
banana leaves (wilted to be more piable) (dahon han saging)
string (higot)

Procedure:
Soak the white and the violet rice separately for 30 minutes.

Cook the white rice with the thick coconut milk. When almost done, add salt.Remove from the stove when cooked. (You may use rice cooker)

Cook the violet rice with thin coconut milk. When almost done, add the sugar. (Add sugar only when the tice is almost done otherwise it will not get cooked)

Entwine the violet and white rice in the banana leaf. Roll.



Roll up the banana leaves and tie by twos.

Place in a pot and add 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil and steam until done-- about 40 minutes.