Laguna de Bay: Doing the Loop- part 1

It had been in my bucket list for over ten years now. And with not much prodding and planning, V, J and I dropped everything to spend a day of motoring from one quaint town  to the next to visit old churches, savor local delicacies and simply to take in the scenery around Laguna de Bay.   

We drove off while the neighborhood was still asleep.  With nary a care in the world, we were confident with V’s reliable driver, Mang T; we had enough snacks and drinks to last us until the next day (if necessary); and, with child-like trust, we knew our guardian angels would come along with us.

As we were coming from the North, we took the Marikina-Antipolo route to get to our first destination: San Geronimo Parish in Morong, Rizal.  We opted to skip a visit to the Antipolo Cathedral as we had visited that area in a pilgrimage done two years ago. The zigzag roads of Antipolo brought us scenic views of Metro Manila still covered in a morning haze.  As we descended, we were greeted with our first view of the surrounding mountains and the lake.  

 Although I had printed out a “google map” and directions, we took to asking tricycle drivers, by-standers, vendors and old women by the roadside for directions instead.  This prove to be the better alternative since much of the roads we were on did not have clear road signs.

After an hour, we arrived at San Geronimo Parish.  Old stone steps lead up to the entrance of the church.  And we counted ourselves lucky to arrive just in time to catch the 6:30AM mass.  Inspired by the sermon given by Fr Ben, we decided to approach him to express our appreciation.  Fr Ben in turn pointed out some interesting facts about his church.  Specially about the lion at the foot of St Geronimo or Jerome.  It possessed more of a human face than a lion and although creepy at first glance, became goofy after awhile.

Outside the church, the air was still cool and we took time to gaze up at the very ornate façade and bell tower.    Somewhere in the town, the “pasion”  was being sang.  There were women sweeping the church grounds and a tent being assembled.  All these were in preparation for the Visita Iglesia and other Holy Week activities. 

We reached out second destination later than we intended as we had zoomed away from it instead of towards it.  But getting lost was part of the adventure.  With an inquiry here and there, we made it to St Mary Magdalene Church, Pililla.  It was now 8:30 and it was starting to get very hot.  The cool interiors of the church was a welcome relief.  We bought some candles from an old woman.  I asked her if she knew anything about the patron saint.  Was she the prostitute that was pardoned by Jesus? 

The old woman smiled and told us that St Mary Magdalene was not the prostitute that had been forgiven by Jesus but she was one of the followers of Jesus.  She became a hermit who spent her days in a cave contemplating Jesus.  This probably explains the rock-like background, skull, book and cross in her hand.

We were then guided to the side of the church where we could light out candle. Lo and behold!  The Sto Nino de Cebu was waiting for us.  This was a pleasant surprise.  A good sign that we will be safe in our journey.

 Before taking off for our next destination, we bought some “shakoy” or “bicho-bicho”  (donut like bread) from another vendor.  Nothing like an early morning snack to tidy us over.

 A few streets away was the San Ildefonso de Toledo Parish Church of Tanay—a National Cultural Treasure.  

 I was glad that V was with us.  Not only is she a gem of a person, but she is quite knowledgeable about Philippine arts and culture.   As J and I got ready to move about the church with our cameras, V had us sit down first so that she could read snippets about the stations of the cross found in that church: “The first twelve bear marks and features revealing the Malayan or native characteristics incorporated such as the somewhat squat appearance of the figures, including Jesus, the use of “Tambuli” made from carabao horn and of the “tabak” or native bolo instead of the usual Roman sword, while the last two bears features that are unmistakably Caucasian. Although the construction of the Stations of the Cross were not recorded in the books of the church, it is widely believed that the first twelve were done by a native artist of Tanay. Another anomaly is usually noticed in the 7 th station by visitors where Caiaphas, the High Priest wears a sunglass. All told, it is considered to be one of the most beautiful Stations of the Cross in all of Asia.”

At the side of the altar are stairs that will lead one to the back of San Ildefonso de Toledo. A part of his cape peaks out of a glass partition.  Devotees touch this with great reverence.  On the other side of the altar is a very unique contraption: a set of bells set on a wheel. I was so tempted to give is a turn but I stopped myself noting that there were people praying in the pews.  I liked that the side altar was free of the usual gold leaf treatment given to the main altar— so very much in vogue in many old churches.  

Two huge century old acacia trees lent an air of antiquity in the parking area/ plaza outside the church. 

We were told that a must try while in Tanay was a local porridge sold at the public market.  Still full from the bicho-bicho, we opt to shop for watermelon, pineapples and singkamas instead.  

 We got back on the road again and climbing high into the mountains this time.  At one point, we  stopped at a designated view deck to take pictures of the panoramic vista of the lake below and have our picture taken while young vendors looked on.  

Along the way, we passed a bamboo farm and as we once again descended closer to the lake, there were rice fields on both sides of the road. Vistas of green brought on thoughts of Amorsolo paintings.   

 Soon we were passing souvenir shops along the road and our shopping instinct kicked in. We had to stop and shop as we reason with each other that it was part of the total experience. And shop we did: cookies, walis ting-ting, coconut vinegar, chicos, noodles, bamboo baskets, and woven hats.

We hit out fourth church of brick and adobe at 11AM. The San Pedro de Alcantara Parish Church, Pakil or originally spelled as Paquil.   

As we entered the church, we were greeted by Mang Erning.  A church curator and guide.  The visit was made more interesting with his many note-worthy  commentaries. If not for Mang Erning, we would have missed out noticing the monster holding up the holy water fount or that majority of those thrown into hell in the “Last Judgement” painting were women. (Now why is that?)  Most of the statues were already covered in the traditional purple cloth but Mang Erning was kind enough to lift some of the covers so we could take a peek at the treasures behind the cloth. 

 Mang Erning then brought us up to a small chapel on the second level of the church.  In the chapel was the statue of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores de Turumba.  She is regally dressed and also wears an ornate metal armor and a rich cape. 

 After a prescribed time, we were told that the dress is cut up in small squares and given out to devotees.  She would never run out of clothes to wear judging from the many dresses hanging in two glass cases in a separate room.

Also in the chapel was the precious oil painting on canvas of Virgen de los Dolores.  Legend has it that this painting was found on the banks of the lake.  It could not be lifted from where it was until the parish priest was summoned. Suddenly the crowd burst out in song and started to dance and the image was quickly moved to the church.  (The word turumba is from the Filipino phrase "natumba sa laki ng tuwa" or tremble in great joy).  

The tour did not end there.   Mang Erning brought us up the 2^nd level of the bell tower. Here hanged a very old 1836 bell.  There were three ropes dangling from the ceiling.  These ropes were attached to the church bells that are rang at specific time.  I had to steel myself from giving them a quick pull.

 All that climbing made us quite hungry.  And rightly so. It was now 1 in the afternoon. When asked, Mang Erning recommended we try out Manay’s along the highway.

A no-frills restaurant, Manay’s served up delicious pinoy favorites at very reasonable prices.  An order good for 4 persons of half a fried chicken, pancit bam-i, rebosado (breaded) shrimps, rice and soft drinks cost us all of P500 (tip included).   

The sun was at it’s peak as it beat down on the well-paved road.  We were full and ready for our next stop—The Santiago Apostol Parish Church of Paete.  Also known for its wood carvings. 

---xoxoxox---

As in most if not all old churches in the Philippines, the ravages of time dictates the need for renovation.  Unlike many European churches, Philippine heritage churches have seen indiscriminate renovations without or little concern for preserving the original.  Possibly because it would cost a lot of money to do so or maybe the look and feel of the church is dependent on the taste (or lack of it) of the parish priest or parish council or whoever makes the decision.  Then again, unlike many European churches, I think that the constant changes in many Philippine churches are indications that the churches are very much alive and are vibrant component of the community.   

---xoxoxox---

Summertime is singkamas time.  This crunchy root crop can be peeled and eaten with a little salt. Or added to any dish, like lumpia, for its sweet crunch.  I like it tossed with a light vinegarette  in a salad of tomatoes, onions and mustard greens or chopped coriander.

Best paired with any grilled or fried meat or fish.  It’s a refreshing summer burst of flavors in your mouth.