Options were brought up, scrutinized and dropped… visit to China town (been there), Intramuros (done that), tour the lake towns of Laguna (traffic), Tagaytay and Baguio (NO! that’s where everyone goes)
Then I mentioned my grandma’s farmhouse in Leyte and my two kids sat up with interest. It’s been 5 years since their last visit and it was only right to renew ties with the relatives plus there was the chance to make a short visit to Samar. A quick check with the airfare prices proved that travel to Leyte via Tacloban was do-able and best of all affordable.
In the week that preceded our travel, I had bought a Leyte-Samar map and arranged for a van rental.
My daughter came up with our Samar itinerary and my son promised not to do any dangerous stuff that young men like to do on vacation—like swim, run or walk too far out into the unknown.
In the three and a half days together, I have discovered that:
• The San Juanico bridge can give the San Francisco Bridge stiff competition in awesomeness.
• There is so much beauty in our country. Samar may be labeled the poorest of the provinces but nature has endowed it with beautiful beaches and green landscape. Tourism possibilities seem endless.
• Europe has some of the most beautiful churches but are often times empty and sad. In contrast, Basey in Samar has a very old and dilapidated church whose bell tower is overrun with ferns and pews eaten away by termites.
But the fresh flowers
and the chorus of voices enacting the way of the cross attest that the faith is very much alive in this poor part of the country.
• There are so many delicacies made special in Leyte. Here are just a few:
Batingkol- made from grated gabi and wrapped in banana leaves-- similar in taste as the binagol but less sweet.
Binagol- made from grated gabi (talyan), eggs, sugar, peanuts and condensed milk and packed in a coconut shell
Moron- made from glutinous rice, condensed milk, suar, margarin, cocoa powder, grated coconut and peanuts. This is wrapped in banana leaves and steamed.
Salvaro- a sweet kind of bread with bits of grated coconut
Suman Tinipa- two types of glutinous rice is used and entwined in banana leaves.
• My kids are truly grown up by the way they shook the hands of relatives. I proudly listen to my son and daughter as they share their opinion on what’s happening in the world with uncles and aunts.
• My kids are still kids by the way they still enjoy being spoiled by their mother. “Can I have some ice cream mommy?”
• My mother and her siblings may have discovered the secret to eternal youth. Simple living and limit beer intake to 3 bottles--- after 3 bottles, no more limit (thanks Tita C for that advise)
• I never tire of the stories told and retold on my grandma’s porch.
The shared experience of growing up together in the most pitiful conditions made for a strong family unit. This has been tested time and again in sickness, in financial strains, and in the simplest need for an understanding presence.
• In order for the family ties to stay strong, there is a conscious need for children to know their roots.
• Age is just a number. It’s hard to believe that my mother and her siblings are in their 70s and 80s. Their laughter rings with youthful vigor.
• The cycle of life continues. My cousins are slowly taking on from their parents the responsibilities of running their family’s farm.
• Having and using a chamber pot (arinola) in the room needs getting used to. But it beats going to the toilet so many steps away in the dark with a “tuko” hovering over the door.
• Fear can hold you back from a beautiful experience. Am glad I gave in to my kids and went with them on a two hour trip around the most fascinating rock and islet formations along the shores of Marabut, Samar.
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Sometime ago, I took the challenge of preparing the tedious but delicious Suman Tinipa. If you have time on your hands and have eager assistants, do give in to this challenge. Don’t let the fear of the unknown stop you.
Suman Tinipa (recipe taken from "Saru-saro Kita! 100 nga mga Kaluto ha Leyte" )
1 1/4 kilos white glutinous rice (busag nga pilit)
1 1/4 kilos violet glutinous rice (tapul nga pilit)
3 cups thin coconut milk (lapsaw nga hatok)
3 cups thick coconut milk (tuno)
1 kilo brown sugar ( pula nga asukar)
2 T salt (asin)
For wrapping:
banana leaves (wilted to be more piable) (dahon han saging)
string (higot)
Procedure:
Soak the white and the violet rice separately for 30 minutes.
Cook the white rice with the thick coconut milk. When almost done, add salt.Remove from the stove when cooked. (You may use rice cooker)
Cook the violet rice with thin coconut milk. When almost done, add the sugar. (Add sugar only when the tice is almost done otherwise it will not get cooked)
Entwine the violet and white rice in the banana leaf. Roll.
Roll up the banana leaves and tie by twos.
Place in a pot and add 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil and steam until done-- about 40 minutes.
