A civil war was brewing in Spain in the 1930s. There was general discord, lack of jobs, unrest, disenchantment. To escape being drafted to fight in a senseless war, my grandfather and two older brothers left their home in Maruri-Jatabe, an agricultural town located in the province of Biscay, in the Basque country of northern Spain. I can only imagine what went on in my grandfather’s mind as he saw the Basque coastline for the very last time. He was 16.
My grandfather and his brothers eventually found their way to the Philippines. For a time, they hired themselves out to oversee the farms of other Basque compatriot who had established themselves in rural Leyte. In one such employment, my grandfather, at 23 was sent off to far flung Taglawigan, San Isidro, Leyte. By that time, not only was my grandfather busy with farm management but was also kept occupied with several romantic liaisons. For what is a lonesome Basque to do so very far from home.
Then one day, a 15 year old provincial lass caught his Castilian eye. She was the daughter of his "labandera" and eventually, would become his wife--- my grandmother. I can only imagine what went on in my grandmother’s mind as she bid her mother and father good-bye to live with a man she hardly knew anything about.
In a span of 17 years, my grandmother gave birth to 10 children—one dying at infancy and the rest living through the cruelties of World War 2; the struggles that characterized poor rural life; and, eventually in later years, gaining the comforts afforded by determination and hard work.
A compassionate woman, my grandmother accepted into her home and heart four other children earlier begotten by my grandfather with several women. They were treated like her own and they in turn addressed her as “Ma”.
My grandparents eventually settled way up in the mountains of Catagbakan, Villaba, Leyte.
At that time, it was the farthest place from civilization—as how my mother described it. Oh, the hardships my mother and her siblings had to go through just to attend classes at the nearest school. It was a two to three hour muddy trek by foot to town. At night, a few “gaseras” were their source of light until it was “lights out” at 8 in the evening and time to rest.
My grandfather never returned to his homeland and I was told that in fits of lonely remembrance, would cry as he sat in the balcony in the early evenings. I can only imagine what went on in the minds of his children as they looked on at the sad scene.
My grandfather died at 60 of blood poisoning as a result of an ear infection. Medical attention was not available so far, far up in the mountains. My grandmother lived on well into her 80s—20 years of which she served as Barangay Captain. She was well loved by the rural folks and is remembered to possess a gentle but firm demeanor.
My grandfather and grandmother were simple folks who lived during turbulent times, and to my mind, chose to live extraordinary lives. They are now buried in a plot that is a short walk from their house-- on the land that they and their children literally poured all their energies in order to survive.
Every family has a story to tell and I believe these stories have to be told and re-told. For in their telling, there is eventual understanding of self and the appreciation of the ties that bind family members to each other.
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No family story is complete without mention of food. Especially food that brought comfort and remembrance. Just like my grandparents, the following recipe is simple but packed with flavor. My mother says that this was a favorite of my grandfather. I am sure this will make it to your list of favorite dishes once you give it a try.
Grilled Fish with Garlic Vinegarette
1 kilo fish (preferably tuna or tanguigui) seasoned with salt and pepper and grilled until cook. Be sure not to overcook the fish so that the flesh will not dry out. Set aside on a platter.
Heat about ¼ cup of olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add sliced garlic (about 2 tablespoons). Cook until golden. Remove from fire and add about half a teaspoonful of pepper flakes (optional) and about 2-3 tablespoons of vinegar. Take care when adding the vinegar as this may cause the oil in the skillet to flare up. Stir until sauce is blended. Spoon the resulting sauce over the fish. Serve immediately.
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