Good Morning Katagbakan

It's already past six in the morning and the temperature continues to be chilly in my grandparents’ (mother side) farm.



There are tiny dew drops on every leaf in the surrounding garden. An early venture out of the house meant coming back with wet slippers and toes.

When I was so much younger, I remember my uncles getting ready to check on the farm right after drinking a cup of steaming coffee. That was at 4:30AM! Now that they are in their 80s, they take their sweet time swapping stories on the balcony and wait for trusted workers to come over to the house with crop and cattle report later in the morning.



The kitchen is slowly filling up with the sweet smell of burning wood as preparations for breakfast gets underway.



Soon there erupts a combination of squeak and squeal from the pigpens and the cackle of chickens as they anticipate the approach of a younger uncle with their morning meal.



The floors are quickly given a good sweep and the contents of bedpans quickly disposed of.



Before long, a hearty breakfast is ready and a call goes out through the house for everyone to come to the table before the food gets cold.



My grandparents are no longer around but I still feel their presence-- specially my grandmother. She's watching over us as we share stories of time past, present concerns and plans for tomorrow.

------------------------------------------------------------

Just recently, I asked the origin of the name “Katagbakan”-- the name given to the area where my grandparents’ farm is located. I was promptly shown the “tagbak” plant that grow all over the area. (Tagbak is a stout herbaceous plant growing to a height of 2 to 4 meters, with stout rootstocks).



------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of meals have come out of my grandmother’s kitchen. A gas stove and oven had been installed sometime ago but it seldom is put to use. Instead, a wood-burning, three burner iron stove continues to be the work horse of choice.

Many outside help have been employed to do kitchen duties. Their number would swell during celebrations. At present and for the last 10 years, “Ibyang” has taken on the task of coming up with daily meals for my aunt and uncle and the occasional visitor. Although physically challenged at a height below 4 feet, she manages to cook up a storm on the iron stove while standing on a small stool. Because of her happy disposition and infectious laughter, one would not know of the many heartaches and hardships she continues to face. Putting on a wide smile and with pride, she comes out of the kitchen with dishes taught her by my aunts. Recipes of which were handed down by my grandmother.

Below, are just some of dishes she prepared while I was visiting. Unfortunately, she could not give me exact measurements as everything is by “feel” and ingredients added on to taste. Surely a good reminder to live life with spontaneity rather than following a step by step measured plan.

Sliced Eggplant with Minced Pork



4-5 eggplants, sliced
About ¼ kilo of pork, minced
Sliced Garlic & Onion
Soy sauce
Salt and pepper

Soak sliced eggplants in water with a little salt. In a wok, sauté the garlic and the onion. Add the minced pork and continue to cook. Drain the eggplants and add to the wok. Add soy sauce, salt and pepper. Soy sauce should be an amount that would bring the dish to a uniform brown color. Serve with lots of steaming rice.

Native Chicken Tinola



1 native chicken, cut into serving pieces
Tanglad
Sliced Ginger, garlic & onion
sili leaves
Small green papaya, peeled and sliced
Salt and pepper

Boil the native chicken in plenty of water. Add the tanglad, ginger, garlic and onion. It’s tough so this will take some time to become tender. Lower heat to a simmer. When chicken is tender, add the sliced green papaya. Cook until papaya is tender but not mushy. Add the sili leaves, salt and pepper. Turn off heat when leaves start to wither. Serve hot with lots of rice.

Pata with Kangkong



1 pork pata, sliced
Tanglad
Sili espada
Garlic
Onion
A bunch of kang kong
Salt & pepper

Put pata in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and immediately throw out the resulting broth. Return pot to the stove and add new water. Add garlic, onion and tanglad. Bring to a boil then lower heat to a simmer. Continue cooking until pata is tender. Drop the kangkong leaves; sili espada; add salt and pepper to taste. Turn off heat when kang kong leaves have withered somewhat. Serve hot with lots of rice and a side of fried dried fish (daing).

Roasted Eggplant with Coconut Cream



4-5 eggplants, roasted and sliced up after burnt peel remove
Sliced Ginger, tomatoes and onion
Sliced Green onions or leeks
Coconut cream (the 1st squeeze from grated coconut)
Salt and pepper

Place the sliced roasted eggplant in a bowl together with the sliced ginger, onions, tomatoes, green onions, coconut cream, salt and pepper. Toss around until everything is well coated with the coconut cream. Chill before serving. Best served with grilled meat or fish.

The December Brothers

December is for my brothers—D & D. Who were born one year apart and on the same month. Who are so much younger than me that I used to rock them to sleep as babies. Who apprenticed as cowboys on an uncle’s ranch during summer breaks. Who came up with all sorts of contraptions in our backyard as young boys to entertain themselves. Who left for America in their teens. Who soon after enlisted in the military. Who would write me letters from far off places.

They may share the same birth months but not everything about them are the same. One is fair and the other dark. One makes beautiful things out of wood. The other one would rather woo beautiful women. One can cook and the other can stir up things. One loves to take risk and the other loves order.

Although they are so many miles away from each other, they nurture a strong bond. Behind the teasing and the jokes and the friendly insults, are silent messages of love and affection.

---------------------------------------------------

We are not openly affectionate as siblings. Growing up, I don’t remember saying the L word to any of them. I do remember the fights, the pranks, the chase, the hair pulling. But when times were difficult, I remember how we pulled together. We continue to do so.

Let’s not go further down the path of mushiness. Instead, let me share with you my mother’s dish that both brothers would devour with gusto. You will surely be at a lost for words once you try this.

Pata Asado (Braised Pork Hocks)

“Braising- The meat is browned slowly and thoroughly on all sides, then a small amount of liquid is added to the pan, the pan is covered, and the meat is simmered over very low heat until very tender.”

1.5 Kilo pata, whole

Marinade:
½ head garlic, pounded
10 peppercorn, whole
1-3 laurel leaves
3 Tbs vinegar
1/3 c soy sauce
1 T Salt
1/2 t Pepper

½ c Tbs cooking oil
2 cups chicken or pork stock or 1 cube buillion dissolved in 2 cups water
1 large onion, sliced
3 potatoes, peeled and quartered

1. Marinate your pata and place this in your refrigerator overnight.

2. The next morning, remove and drain the pata. Set the marinade aside.
3. In a large pot or pressure cooker, heat up some cooking oil.
4. Fry your pata until nice and brown.

5. Set the pata to one side of the pot.
6. Saute one sliced onion until translucent.
7. Pour in the chicken stock. Add about half of the marinade into the pot and pressure cook for about 30 minutes.
8. When done, cool and carefully open lid.  Taste to check that the liquid is to your liking—not bland but not too sour. If needed, add more marinade.
9. Add the quartered potatoes and pressure cook for another 10 minutes.
10.  When done, cool and carefully open lid.
11. If sauce is not thick enough continue to simmer.  Or add a teaspoon or two of corn starch mixed in a tablespoon of water.  Simmer until sauce is just the right consistency that you want.
12.  Carefully transfer to a deep dish and garnish with chopped parsley or green onions.
12. Serve with lots of steamed rice.

Note: You can do this with an ordinary pot.  Just add more stock.
You can do the same for a whole chicken as well.